There are a few places you simply don’t want to miss when you travel around Snæfellsnes Peninsula in West Iceland. Two of these are the tiny old fishing villages Arnarstapi and Hellnar. Or to be more exact, you don’t want to miss the old horse trail that connects these two villages.
This old trail takes you along the gorgeous shore line with a view of the ocean and extraordinary columnar basalt and lava cliff formations on one hand and stunning mountains and Snæfellsjökull Glacier on the other.
Where to Start the Hike Between Arnarstapi and Hellnar?
You can either start your hike in Arnarstapi or Hellnar and then walk back and forth. If you decide to walk from Arnarstapi, you drive down to the harbour and park there. The trail starts right by the parking lot. You can’t miss it. If you on the other hand want to start the hike in Hellnar, you park by Fjöruhúsið Café which is located down by the shore. The trail starts to the left of the café.
What I prefer and recommend is to start the hike in Arnarstapi. Then you can take a well earned break in the cute little café, Fjöruhúsið, down by the shore in Hellnar before you walk back to Arnarstapi. Of course you can also start in Hellnar, walk back and forth and reward yourself at the end of the hike with some treats in the café. Whatever suits you best.
Fjöruhúsið Café in Hellnar
Either way, the café stop is a must if you’re there in summer or on the weekends in spring and fall. Unfortunately it’s closed during the winter months. On their menu you´ll find delicious homemade cakes, quiches and their popular fish soup along with waffles and different kinds of beverages. Everything is made from scratch and is so yummy.
The house itself is really small and has only room for a few tiny tables. But outside there is a big wooden patio so there are plenty of tables in total. You just might have to settle for enjoying your refreshments outside in your coat but that is the part of the experience 🙂
Fjöruhúsið’s Facebook page hereAn Easy but Gorgeous Hike
The trail itself is an easy walk with no real elevation. I read somewhere that the official length of it is 2.5 km/1.6 mi. But I made a few short loops and ended up walking about 3.5 km/2.2 mi one way. The total walk took me 50 min but the app I was using said my moving time was 37 min.
My track on Wikiloc from this hikeHow long it will take you depends highly on the number of photo stops you’ll make on your way. And trust me. There will be many of them! There is a good reason for this trail’s popularity. The spectacular surrounding landscapes make you constantly want to stop and take some photos. To make an honest attempt to capture some of the beauty surrounding you and take it home with you. I for one totally understand the feeling. Even though pictures never do a place like this justice, they sure make some great souvenirs from this part of Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
The longest part of the trail is on a wide and even surface but as you come closer to Hellnar, it gets narrow and a bit crooked. Here you walk on the original narrow horse trail through an old lava field called Hellnahraun which ends at the beach in Hellnar.
Besides being very scenic, there is so much energy in the air along this trail. Both from the ocean and the birdlife in the area. Especially during the breeding season. Then the cliffs are full of life and you better watch out for the crazy arctic tern. A bird that doesn’t hesitate to peck you in the head if it feels it’s babies are threatened. So watch out!
My Favourite Spots on the Hike Between Arnarstapi and Hellnar
My two favourite spots on this hike are the beach by Hellnar and the harbour at Arnarstapi which I think is one of the most beautiful harbours in Iceland. It’s surrounded by some lava stacks that beautifully frame in the harbour. It also has a stunning backdrop of the majestic mountain Stapafell. You might have seen a picture of it on social media, showing an old white house with a red roof sitting at the foot of it (similar to the first photo in this post). A very popular photo subject among people who visit Arnarstapi.
The beach by Hellnar has these gorgeous rounded rocks in all sizes and different shades of gray. Everything from very dark gray to almost white. And then there are the cliffs with their diverse textures and colours. A piece of art made by Mother Nature. On my last visit there, we were there on a calm day and low tide. I could have easily just sat there on one of the rounded rocks and admired the stunning cliffs and the calm little ocean pool below them, for hours. So beautiful and relaxing.
The Weather Conditions May Influence the Experience but it Will always Be Beautiful.
Even though the weather was calm on my last visit, that is most certainly not always the case here in Iceland. Not at all. The wind can often be a bit extreme and so it was on one of my walks on this trail a few years back. The hair on my friend and me stood right up in the air in some of our pictures! But when we reached this rocky little beach by Hellnar we seemed to have reached a place sheltered from the wind. Which was great as we were then able to enjoy this wonderful little spot.
Of course the conditions differ depending on when you visit. You might visit on high tide or on a day when the ocean is rough. Then you won’t be able to come as close to the cliffs or even see the rounded rocks properly as the ocean flows all over them. But either way, the surroundings are beautiful and the refreshments you can buy at Fjöruhúsið (as long as it’s open when you’re there) will not disappoint.
What else is there in Arnarstapi?
Once Arnarstapi was an important fishing hub, but during the industrial revolution things changed here in this little village in the north as in the rest of the world. Today tourism and service play a key role in the village’s economy. In Arnarstapi you’ll find a wide range of accommodation and tour operators use it as a base for their different tours around Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Arnarstapi Center (hotel / gesthouse / cottages / camping Geology and wildlife hike with Go West Glacier tours with Go WestThere are also a few restaurants located in Arnarstapi but unfortunately most of them are closed during the winter months. According to the information I have, one of them, Snjófell, has the longest opening hours and is usually open most of the year (closed November through January). But you should always investigate beforehand what possibilities you have for dining in the area if you are travelling in winter. Best is to try to call the restaurants or send a message as it looks like the online info isn’t always accurate.
But no matter the season, nature will always deliver and a visit to Arnarstapi and the rest of Snæfellsnes Peninsula will most certainly not disappoint. Worst case scenario, you’ll have to bring some food with you 🙂
Snjófell Restaurant Samkomuhúsið Arnarstapa (restaurant) Stapinn RestaurantIf you liked this post and think some of your friends might be interested in reading it too, please help me spread the word. I’d really appreciate it if you’d share it on social media by using one of the small icons here down below.
Until next time!
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tony van bulck says
Love this
I.m planning our trip to this area right now.
Thanks
j.siggadottir says
You are so very welcome Tony 🙂
Don’t miss the tiny little village, Hellissandur. There you’ll find many beautiful paintings or street art on the houses down by the sea. And if you’re there in summer there is a really nice little café called Gilbakki you have to check out.
Jordan says
All in all a great detailed explanation
Only thing missing imo is that you actually ended up not giving any estimate to how long this will take.
You mentioned it differs with photo stops.
In that case, if you won’t give time estimates for a roundtrip with many photo stops as opposed to one with fewer photo stops, you could at least mention how long it took you 🙂
j.siggadottir says
You are so right Jordan! I should have included how long it took me.
I just updated the post and now you can see it took me about 40 min (or that is what my Wikiloc app said my moving time was on this walk) 🙂